チェコ移住生活~森鴎外も暮らした文化の都、ライプツィヒを歩く①~

 

 

 

 

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ベルリンの壁崩壊につながる重要な教会を発見!


 

ライプツィヒという都市の名前を聞いたことがあるだろうか?ドイツの名だたる都市の中では、少し知名度が劣るかもしれない。しかしここにゆかりのある人の名前を挙げると、バッハ、メンデルスゾーン、ゲーテ、森鴎外(ライプツィヒ大学に通われていたらしい)などそうそうたる文豪や芸術家がいる。

そんなライプツィヒは、ベルリンの南西約120㎞のところに位置し、人口が約50万人と東ドイツ地域ではベルリンに次いで第2の規模を持つ。プラハから見ると北西に約230㎞に位置し、バスで3時間半ほどで行ける距離だ。前のウィーン旅行の記事でも紹介したMeinfernbusが直行便を運行しているということを知り、日帰り旅行をすることにした。

2-2

今日も朝早く、8時15分にプラハのバスターミナルを出発。今日は青空の車窓が美しい。このご時世なので、ドイツとチェコの国境では、それぞれの警察がパスポートチェックを行った。

2-3

 無事2度のパスポートチェックを通過し、途中の経由地ドレスデンを過ぎたあたりから、車窓が白くなりだした。雪!?なんとライプツィヒに着くころには、あたりが真っ白に。撥水生地のコート着てこなかったことを後悔しつつ、ひとまず駅に逃げる。

 2-1

ライプツィヒの駅は、実は何気にヨーロッパ最大の面積を誇る駅だったことは、よもや予想をしていなかったが、たしかにでかい!そして駅の構内で既にクリスマスマーケットを実施中。駅の中を堪能するのもありだが、やはり外に出ねばということで、寒さに耐える覚悟で小さな折り畳み傘をさしながら外に繰り出した。

 2-4

まず見えてきたのは、ニコライ教会。見た目も美しいが、実はこの教会は歴史的にも非常に重要なものだったのだ。当地が東ドイツだった時代、この教会では毎週月曜日に平和の在り方を考える「平和の祈り」という開かれていたんだとか。詳しいことは割愛させていただくが、ここでの平和に関する活動が教会内に留まらず拡大し、東ドイツ平和革命の口火が切られた。その1カ月後ベルリンの壁は崩壊し、その1年後には東西ドイツの統一が実現する。

白を基調とした美しいモダンな教会だな、なんて思っていたが、そんな歴史があることを知った瞬間、少し姿勢を正してしまった。

次回はバッハ博物館を訪問する。

 

 

 

 

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